Do a Doodle for Todd's Abode

Krisidious

I noticed on your blog that you know the distance of the lot lines. if you know the direction as well... you can use this ruby. SurveyTool.rb it draws a perfect plat.

http://rhin.crai.archi.fr/rld/plugin_details.php?id=434

todd burch

Don't know the directions. My distances are from me and my 100' rule with an assistant that was more worried about speed than accuracy.

wyatt

Todd, you shouldn't need a survey to get the lot dimensions. See if you can get a copy of the plat from the developer or your county courthouse. You may need to pay the county for the privilege and you'll still need a survey before you start building, but the plat should help you out a lot...pun not intended. Congrats, BTW, on this new adventure. I wish you all the best!

todd burch

Thanks Wyatt!

As of today, there is no plat registered with the county. The developer is supposed to meet with the County Commissioner's court soon to get the plat, subdivision and proposed road all approved. I have not met or spoken with the developer yet.

In due time.

Todd

todd burch

Here's an inspiring house. Lots of nice features we like.

http://www.oldhouseonline.com/an-eco-friendly-farmhouse/

Down here, you don't see that many porches (in the country) that are (appear to be) an extension of the foundation. Most are wooden with 2X6 or 2X4 floor boards. I like the zero-maintenance aspects of this stone-over-concrete porch.

Similarly, the roof proper covers the porches, whereas, more common around here, separate porch-roofs are used. Would this eco-house roof be more expensive?

We both like dormers, but prefer a gabled dormer better.

What are the clips on that roof? Are they for ice and snow?

The interior floor plan (kitchen/dining/family room) is similar to the "Round Top" model on the link to the country cottages above (which my wife likes the best). I like this eco-house better, as the kitchen island is parallel with the through traffic.

Todd

Daniel

Todd, yes the roof "clips" are for ice and snow.

In order for anyone to try to design something, we'd need a program (list of rooms, specific requirements, preferred views, etc.)

david_h

As someone who has just gone thru this experience I have one word of advice. ..

DON'T!!!!!!

Just kidding. . .everybody should take the opportunity of building their own house. .. Just once.

todd burch

Forward progress on the lot this week. Last Monday, the developer filled the north end of my gully, installed two 12" drain pipes, and built me a drive. See blog here for pictures: http://web.me.com/toddburch/NewSite/Lot_13_Blog/Entries/2011/6/4_Changes_to_Gully__Got_culvert_pipes!.html

They've laid the conduit for utilities and filled the trenches. Next step - power company will pull the electric into the drop boxes. Then, they should be able to finish the road.

Next check I write will be for a soil test. $1,032. He said one hole should be good enough for a 2400 sf house. Same engineer that tested the soil for the road.

jeff hammond

Ground floor shop if you have a choice.

Thank me later :d

(but then again, I'm not quite sure what you'd be doing in the workshop but putting it on an upper level is going to start limiting things immediately.
Or, it might be neat to have it on an upper floor with a large deck/dock type area (bigger than an elevator) that a forklift could grab from/ load to if ever needed (which would be the case if I had an upper level shop))

I guess in the big picture though, this is minor compared to all the other stuff you're dealing with.

todd burch

So... I'm back. Lots of things have changed. If you look at the lot layout above, I was working with #13. Well, I'm selling that, and I bought lot #11. A bit further down the hill, and a lot more rectangular.

I've contracted with a builder to build a house and garage. I need a workshop too, and we just entered discussions for that. I'm now turning this discussion towards the shop.

This is what I've given to my builder, to let him give me an estimate. (I fudged some actual dimensions in the screenshot of the building, for simplicity's sake, for quicker discussions with my builder.)

Since I'm not a home or building designer... my question to the community here is is... to get this look and function of a shop, what can be done to maximize my cost savings during construction? (I obviously didn't complete it - but I think it's done enough to convey what I am trying to build.) Or, perhaps I can tweak this design in some area for a big cost savings without a big loss of function or capacity?

I'm referring to saving money, and right now, don't have a cost estimate for what it might cost to build this.

Some specs:

Standing seam metal roof - 24 gauge, no screws. (to match house and garage)
Fiber cement lap siding (to match)
Vinyl windows (to match)
Slab on grade foundation
Drain stub outs for toilet and sink
Supply line stub-outs (I'll add toilet and sink later)
manual rollup doors on each end, 10'x10' (not "garage" doors)
1 door, 2880.
Porch overhang with no porch (I'll add it later)
12/12 pitch on center roof (to match garage and house)
4/12 pitch on shed roofs
2X6 framing, 24" on center
Interior posts - I would prefer just 2, but could live with 4. 6 is too many.
4' wide stairs to loft

Any input is appreciated. I've attached the .skp file of you want to play around with it.

Thanks, Todd

Todd's Woodworking Workshop

Charlie__V

@unknownuser said:

So... I'm back.

I'm referring to saving money, and right now, don't have a cost estimate for what it might cost to build this.

Some specs:

Standing seam metal roof - 24 gauge, no screws. (to match house and garage)

Fiber cement lap siding (to match)

Vinyl windows (to match)

Slab on grade foundation

Drain stub outs for toilet and sink

Supply line stub-outs (I'll add toilet and sink later)

manual rollup doors on each end, 10'x10' (not "garage" doors)

1 door, 2880. 3680 (assuming inches designation....no savings in a 28" door width)

Porch overhang with no porch (I'll add it later)

12/12 pitch on center roof (to match garage and house)

4/12 pitch on shed roofs

2X6 framing, 24" on center

Interior posts - I would prefer just 2, but could live with 4. 6 is too many. 2 is likely (1 each span/see attached)...I would consult a local engineer.

4' wide stairs to loft

Any input is appreciated. I've attached the .skp file of you want to play around with it.

Thanks, Todd

[attachment=2:og7191n3]SketchUpScreenSnapz025.png[/attachment:og7191n3]

[attachment=3:og7191n3]newshop-copy.skp[/attachment:og7191n3]

![18" Beam/1 Col.](/uploads/imported_attachments/zmIZ_18inchBeam_1column.JPG "18" Beam/1 Col.")

NewShopRev1

todd burch

Thanks Charlie!

Charlie__V

@unknownuser said:

Thanks Charlie!

You are quite welcome.

I must ask....what kind of "manual roll up doors" are you installing?

I can only imagine/guess....what I would call "city gates"....metal panels that "roll up" when one pulls a linked metal chain down on one side to ope.....other to close... (think engine hoist).

Sorta like that??

Charlie

todd burch

Yes, that is what I was thinking.