Something for the wife
-
I agree, I will raise the bottom braces up. I didn't think of the water pooling. And Tig I didn't even think of it looking like swastikas lol and I'm not a Nazi either. Attachment will be a little tricky and some of the inside boards will need to be toe-nailed in.
Thanks Kurt
-
The Swastika predates the Nazis by thousands of years - it's sad that they hijacked so spectacularly that it will be along time before it's rehabilitated...
Well done with the logical concept - irrespective of its 'hidden symbolism'
-
Is not a swastika at all ... ses here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swastika it might look-like, but also it misses some design elements. A boat propeller could as well to look like a swastika.
Anyway, you will put the flower pot with a plate under, right?
What asks for work is the bottom, the "foot support", now is just a triangle, it looks like you were in a hurry and you had to finish it.Finish it, make your wife happy, then post a picture with the flowers on it, to make us happy
Good luck ! -
Small changes to the base.
-
Nice. I like the change in the base.
Could I suggest that you let the horizontal braces into the posts? Stop them short of the corners so you don't need to miter the ends of the square ones. letting the diagonal brace into the posts will also give you good surfaces for gluing so you don't need to have exposed hardware on them. Gluing them as you have them would be pointless because of the end grain.
I would also make sure to seal the tops of the posts very well. What are you planning to use as a finish? I would suggest linseed oil and I would stand the posts in it for a few hours so they can soak up as much as they'll take. Actually thin the oil slightly with mineral spirits to make it runnier. Finish with a coat or two of straight boiled linseed oil, let it dry and then wax at least the top surfaces of the "swastikas".
-
Thanks Dave for your suggestions, I was just going to spray it with some Thompson water sealer but now I will look into and read some on the linseed oil because I have never used it. I also like the idea of insetting the horizontal braces.
Thanks Kurt
-
Since you guys brought up oil finishing, what are the advantages of linseed, as opposed to tung oil?
-
I don't know that there are any real advantages of one over the other. The color is probably different but that kind of depends upon the wood, too. It might yellow less than linseed oil but I've never seen any problems with linseed oil yellowing in an objectionable way. I think linseed oil is less expensive. You can get linseed oil and boiled linseed oil. The latter dries a bit faster. I use it and thin it with mineral spirits for early coats so it'll soak in deeper.
-
I remember something about tung oil that it is not a one time application, and that, over time, the frequency of reapplication diminishes? I have also heard that it is the best for salad bowls. Is this true?
-
I think like any finish, it really needs some upkeep. How much depends upon how the piece is treated and to what it is exposed. On my desk I have a letter opener I made in the summer of 1980. It is rosewood and maple finished with linseed oil and then paste wax. It looks as good if not better than it did when I made it and it has never had any update to the finish. I also have a roll top jewelry box made of padauk (you may have seen drawings of it) that was made in 1981. It has only linseed oil on it and is still beautiful. On the other hand, I've see some boat bright work that was finished with only oil which has turned black with age. It needs updating about every 12 months, too.
As far as using tung oil for salad bowls, as long as it hasn't got anything toxic in it, it would be fine. It hardens nicely. Of course if you wash the bowl after using it, you'll need to refresh the oil once in awhile.
Advertisement