Hi Folks,

Jean-Franco, that is one beautiful design. And don't let Gidon scare you. Tenons are like clamps, you can never have enough of them. ;<)

If you use the e-ray view on the center drawer it appears there is a different texture there. It almost looks like a white oak ray pattern. Is there something there that is different than the rest?

Gidon,

I have Dutch & German genes, which I guess explains why we have the same need for "order", hence layers.

Hi Folks,

Gidon, thanks for the quite complete demo model. This is exactly the way I draw. Every part part or appliance starts on layer0 until I decide to make it a component or group. I ten immediately assign it a layer. It may share a layer with other parts if that makes logical sense. I try never to have more than one part in construction on layer0 at the same time lest the get mingled and then life gets difficult.

But I have found that a lot of experienced SketchUp people tend to shy away from layers, choosing to draw everything on layer0, and leaving it there even after making group or components of things. I am wondering why and is there some intrinsic value to doing that which I don't understand.

And remus is correct. If yo dare to draw a part on another lay you are bound to get in trouble sooner or later. The first drawing I did in SketchUp I tried to draw things on the layer they would eventually occupy and all hell broke loose because of the sticky nature of SketchUp primitives. I almost gave up on SketchUp. Glad I didn't.

sketchy,

You are absolutely correct. I didn't mean to imply there is no place for a low cost solution, nor did I mean to offend anyone. If I did I apologize.

Gidon asked for our opinion, and as usual, when asked I will tell you what I honestly believe. That said, I should probably think more before I do.

Jean-Franco,

Thanks very much for the explanation and the model. Both were very clear. Your written english is as good, or better, than mine and I can't speak a word of a second language. You have my admiration.

But I am still not convinced of the advantage of doing everything on one layer, which I can imagine gets very large and messy, not to mention difficult to find your way around a complex model. Though I must admit, it seems the experienced and knowledgeable SketchUp veterans all seem to do it that way. I guess I will have to give it a try for myself and see.

I don't know what PageHide.rb does, but I will download it and give it a try. Thanks for the tip off on that too.

Hi Folks,

Are these for kitchen cabinet doors or furniture? If they are for kitchen cabinet doors I think they are fine. But I am not fond of biscuits or plywood. Biscuits tend to swell in high humidity and show through. They create a small bulge and you can detect where they are. Plywood is quite stable and will probably last well beyond the life of the cabinet, but plywood veneers are easy to spot because of how they are made. They can be finished nice and look great.

On furniture I am with Fine Woodworking. Traditional joinery and hardwood all the way. Call me a snob, but that's just me.

Gidon,

The one I like best is the stretchers top and bottom. The one I like least is the one with the aprons. When I first looked at the new drawings I was sure you made it taller too. But I measured it and found you hadn't. I must be the viewing perspective. I could go with the first one too. It is simple and elegant.

Gidon,

I think stretchers would complicate it and detract from the look. But, that is what SketchUp is for. Have you tried modeling it. Then we can vote on this one or that one. But I like it as is.

Jean-Franco,

That is one gorgeous model. Being a dovetail nut I too enjoyed crawling around the various parts. I saved it to my desktop to see if I could reclaim your textures. Especially the white oak.

Gidon,

I was not aware of it. I just downloaded it and will play with it tonight. I need to get into the shop today. There is an unfinished table project waiting for me.

Thanks for the tip.

Jean-Franco,

I understand your point and after laboring all day on Part 4 of the tutorial I think I am ready to find some shortcuts. More graphics may be the solution now that I have covered the basics. I'll try to integrate it into Part 5 and see how it goes.

The chairs are really great. Do you use layers when you want to make shop drawings with all dimensions and need to show each part in detail? If not, how do you handle that.

The detail in the hinges are unbelievable. I could of used a few of these for the drawings of a hutch I just finished.

Thanks again for the feedback.

Hi Folks,

Gidon, I have posted your tutorials. Much thanks.

Jean-Franco, thanks for the feedback. I went the route of detailed instructions for beginners because it filled a void I found when I was trying to learn (still am) SketchUp.

If you already understand the basics you can follow an instruction like "Use the Intersect With Model tool to form the tenon". But if you don't know how to use the Push/Pull tool yet, that instruction isn't very helpful. Similarly, the videos help for some people, but to many they are too quick - and it is frustrating to stop and start them and relocate windows on the screen to keep up.

I conscientiously decided to fill a void I felt was there for beginners who need detailed instructions. So far I have gotten significant interests. As I proceed beyond the beginner tutorial I will use more abstracted and graphical methods, especially like that Gidon uses. Having gotten beyond the beginner stage myself I like Gidon's method and the tutorials you find on the Fine Woodworking Blog.

I am also finding that the hook of a single project (a bedside table) from beginning to end, tends to keep people interested and wanting the next installment.

I hope this explanation didn't sound too defensive because I really value people's feedback. I just felt it important to explain why I went the route I did.

Thanks for the interest and feedback.
Joe....

Hi Gidon,

Thanks for reviewing the tutorials and providing feedback, especially so well animated. On drawing the tapered leg I find it faster to start at the bottom and work up, though as you say, not the way we would build it in the shop. The taper dimensions I usually use are never a problem calculating in my head. They are usually 1/2, 2/3 or 5/8. But I agree that if they are difficult to calculate I would do it as you suggested.

On using 'intersect with model' I agree 100%. However, I developed this material to teach a live class in my neighborhood and because this is a course for beginners i.e. people who have never used SketchUp before, I am introducing the basic tools first and the more advanced tools later. But you are correct. I almost always use 'intersect with model' for this procedure when I do my own drawing, and I will take your advice and introduce it to my students at the beginning of the next class. Also, with your permission, I will put up your tutorials on my blog for people who have been following my tutorials. I will certainly give you the appropriate attribution as well. So let me know if that is ok with you.

Thanks again,

Hi Folks,

I have been using SketchUp for about three months now (though 3D drawing for about 15 years). I know what it is like for a newbie to come up the curve. To help others, especially woodworkers, I have posted the first two parts of a six part tutorial on the how to draw a bedside table on my blog. Part three will go up today. It is intended for beginners. I am also using this material to teach a class in my local area. So check it out. If you use it please send me feedback, the kind I can use to make it better. I have a thick skin and small ego, so you won't hurt my feelings. My blog is http://www.srww.com/blog and my contact information is on my website.

Gidon,

Did you find Chris Schwarz's book? If not you can get it on Amazon.com . It is called Workbenches. I started reading it. I think you will really like it. His writing style is easy to read and his knowledge of woodworking is top notch.

Yeah, and solid wood is likely to be a lot lighter than MDF.

itimas,

I have seen this act before. The architect does his work which is creative, fun, and largely without rules and says to the builder "OK, now it's your problem".

Actually, I really like the design. It is very appealing. Have you considered building the curved doors using many pieces of vertical boards with the inside face narrower than the outside, the edges beveled, and when all are clued together form a near perfect curve, which can be made a perfect curve with the right amount of sanding and hand planing. Then you can veneer it, ob both sides of course. You would have to account for seasonal changes in width, but with the overlay added should be no problem.

Great design. Make sure you show pictures of the end product.

Hi Folks,

I just got back from a woodworking show in Saratoga, NY. A great show. Everything from turnings to large case construction. Best of all Chris Schwarz was there and I got a signed cop of his book. Haven't read it yet, but have thumbed through it. It looks like the usual great job by Chris. It also came with a CD that Chris says has the whole book on it plus a lot of material he couldn't put in the book.

Gidon, it is available on the internet. If you haven't already found it and purchased it try http://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Theory-Construction-Use/dp/1558708405 .

Gidon,

That was 4 hours well spent!!! Nice job. I have an antique high chair. I don't know who built it or exactly how old it is, but my grand kids all used it. Though they are to old to use it now I still keep it in my dining room. I love it. That is what is going to happen to this crib years down the road. Make sure you sign and date it before you lose control of it.

Dave,

Great looking cradle. Though, of the two efforts shown, I think you did a better job on the kid.