Large circular lattice work
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Well Guieus that where I got the pdf from, a re-enactment group and I do that myself. My last yurt had stones painted on the side to make it look more like a hut (my ancestors are from Scotland). The next one I want to do, will have flat stone on the sides and a thatched roof paint job. I can't find pictures of the old yurts or I'd post 1 or 2.
Cliff
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@ Pilou. last night I did a quick conversion to the door file. Now that I know how components work, I was thinking about how I would have done things differently well doing some wood working. So here's the file, look it over and tell me if that's better or if I just went overboard the other way. I still haven't figured it all out, but there are some parts I'd have grouped that I made a component in the drawing.
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All copies of something must be a components!
Your hooks are very heavy (2400 entities)and they are groups!
and you have 4 of that!
so making components is indispensable!
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OK I thought I redid everything as components. So if you exploded a group and re component it, it's still a group? I did find a few parts I couldn't draw correctly just 2 weeks ago that I fixed. So I am learning something. Plus I'm not familiar with the term "hooks" can anyone explain?
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This?
@unknownuser said:
if you exploded a group and re component it, it's still a group?
No it's a Component with all elements "grouped"!
[flash=420,315:lpdwih0l]http://www.youtube.com/v/r1QpoNO-1zM[/flash:lpdwih0l]
[flash=420,315:lpdwih0l]http://www.youtube.com/v/1Z_Br6AQZhI[/flash:lpdwih0l]And that are groups
[flash=420,315:lpdwih0l]http://www.youtube.com/v/mtH9Sm7YgHg[/flash:lpdwih0l]If you make a car with 4 wheels are one wheel's group copied * 3 and save
If you make a car with 4 wheels are one wheel's component copied * 3 and save
the file with the car withs "component" will be less heavy than the file with 4 wheels groups ! -
That is called an eye bolt. Since the hook rolls over to almost a closed position. I though you where using the term as some kind of vocabulary used for SU. Sorry about that. The one's over the door are that heavy, the lag screw (wood threads) portion is cut short so it doesn't go through the 2x4. There's a rope that goes through the outside ends of the rafters, that is tied off to those eye bolts. It works as the top tension band making the frame work stronger. That was the 1st attempt at making something like that with the follow me tool. It's not perfect by a long shot, but close enough for what I needed at the time. They are a little to large for the door wings, but when I tried to redraw new 1's it did work out the same, I could have used scale to re-size them, but I didn't. Those are both changes I made to the original plans.
So I was wrong about my guess about changing group to components.
Not the 1st time I was wrong about something in SU. Since we are kind of on vocabulary, when you say "heavy" is the file size larger or just the entities count?I've seen the top video before, it's one of the video series I watching to find out how things work better. I remember seeing the Dummy's series a while ago, but never went back and look at it.
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Sorry Pilou, my mind has been going in 4 directions the last few days. You where talking about the hooks from a drawing point of view, not the actual use. I was working out the math to layout the slats for the walls and took a break to work on the follow me tool. I redid the eye bolts or hooks and figured out a better way to do them. I also played around with making them components. Found out that you can modify a singular component without effecting the rest of them. I thought anything you did to one, happened to the rest of them. I'm starting to see the difference between groups and components as far as the layout goes.
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@unknownuser said:
when you say "heavy" is the file size larger or just the entities count?
the file size larger when components are not used in general
so at the screen all is more slow to move /rotate/...when you have big projects! -
Thanks Pilou, now what you guys have been saying is starting to make more sense. I might have been screwing around with SU for 2 years, but I've put in more hours the last 2 weeks then I have before. I just realized something major today as well, stop thinking like AutoCad, this is SketchUp, learn how it works.
Thanks for all the help for everyone. It's starting to sink in.
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I've got a rotate question. Will SU rotate to the .00 percentage of a degree? Say like 11.77 degree rotate. I remember doing the spoke wheel and manually placing parts. When I got to the end, the last pieces where out of place. After checking the angle, it read 11.8, I went back and changed a few to 11.7 to make everything fit. Would a rotate / paste array work better (I hope that's the right term) or would a rotate / paste by divide (12/ entered after rotate) work? Or is there a better way to solve this problem?
Cliff
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Su Works with degree
I believe that your result is just a lack of reading number of precision
(so it's a round up or round down)
you can increase the number of precision : Menu Windows / Model InfoYou can enter /7 or 7/
You can enter any entries after the rotation array until you take a another tool! -
Pilou, that was the ticket. Now it works great. I have better luck with the / before the number. Don't know why, just do. Hopefully I'll make you proud.
Dave, had a GREAT chat yesterday,
you answered most of my question for my short term goals. I didn't work on the bowie any more that night, to frustrated. But I did get the rotate / copy array down (thanks to the precision adjustment). I think most of my problems with the slat build up was with weld. 1st I get better results dividing it into 2 and welding then /3. Then for some reason I have to click the long curved right helix, then the top and bottom, followed by the left helix to get it to extrude right. Plus walking me through the choices for the boxes helped. No more guessing and trial and error, mostly error. I thought that you had sub folders in your layers? Not just single layers, but I thought I saw 1 layer with 2 sub layers, if that makes any sense to you. If I'm correct, "How do I do the same?".OK some long and short term goals. 1st I'd like to upload files that don't drive you all nutz trying to work with them. Then most of you guys should be able to work up plans from the files if you want to build one (you;ll still need the pdf). I'm working getting getting layers down to a point that help show how things are put together. On the short side, layers is in the works, drawing threads for both machine and wood screws. When I'm done with this project, I'll have it drawn down to the last nut and bolt. I'm not planning on doing it with other projects, but this is a big learning curve for me. I know how the yurts is built, how it works, so I want to see if I can pull off the details.
Time to beg for some more help. Here's 1 of the latest helix attempts. Problem is the tops of the inside slats are to far to the center. I've tried making an inside and outside slat, but dam near the same results. I followed Dave's walk through. Even tried scaling to mirror instead of flipping on the green. Any suggestions? It should be V6.
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Cliff,
In thinking about it, although I used the same slat for both directions, by rights, it should be two different ones. Using the same method as I showed you, there should be two separate helices created with one have a radius that is larger than the other by the thickness of the slats. You can either draw the second helix and flip it along the green direction or get a reversed turn by typing -1 for the number of turns.
I enjoyed chatting with you yesterday.
D
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IDK what you've covered with Dave.
If you are using the same slat for the inner. Choose an outer slat, copy it and Paste in Place. Then immediately flip along blue axis. You should then have a slat that is properly positioned in the circle, going the other direction (albeit you need to rotate about the yurt center per your inner slat layout). Before that you need to move it inward, as best you can, keeping a HORIZONTAL plane movement:
[Debatable at this point whether you wish to make the inner slat a different component from the outer. Think what you might be doing with it. You can do this later by selecting all the inner slats and making "unique" at once.]
Draw a line from bottom corner to bottom corner (or tops) of this new slat and the outside slat that you made it from. find the midpoint of that line and draw a horizontal line snapping to the center of the yurt (you might need further help setting that up?). Give that line the length of the thickness of the lath. Select the inner lath and use that short line as a guide for moving the lath inward.
Then you rotate the lath (by yurt center) to a proper circular offset per your plan, and radially duplicate it.
Do this on a copy of your file !
In case it totally doesn't work for you and you want to try something else! ( or... Select all outer lath copy, paste in place, group. flip along blue. Uniform red-green scale about center (~.995), rotate. Done. But then you've technically scaled the lath--but how technical IS a yurt?)
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Just like you, Pilou, Cliff has Style
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Why do you keep the End points, Extensions, and Profile style ?
It's very pertubating till the project is not finished !
You can disable them menu Window / Styles/ (edge setting - the little wireframe cube on the left)
You want make something like this ?
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Pilou,
I find endpoints can be handy for seeing vertices while working sometimes. Profiles show a line that isn't lying in a plane. For the same purposes of working aid, I sometimes use color "by axis". Yeah it's ugly, but useful. Conversely I turn these off, rarely use them, in SU output. But plain edges is nicer on the eyes sometimes while modeling.
Peter
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@unknownuser said:
You want make something like this ?
Nice. That door won't keep out the critters, through.
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Dam I forgot to ask about lathe. Is that the rotate tool used with copy / paste or is it something else. A quick explanation, thread link, video, anything. It's one of those terms I've heard, just haven't researched it yet.
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@ Pilou. those setting are the default for the program. I think it's the architecture feet, inches. I don't always turn them off, like when I copy something into a new file and have an idea to try. I forget about Style and just try to work out the problem. So what default format do you use?
Yes that's similar to what I'll be building, but with taller walls, smaller smoke ring, and a shallower roof. But that's the basic idea. Since I have built 1 before(plus there have been 100+ built by these plans), I know the plans work, but I'm having a problem doing it in SU. It could be my math (not like I haven't double, triple checked it and soon to do it again). Hopefully the next file won't make you want to scream at me again.@ pbacot, welcome to scream at the noob. "Yes, I am joking around". You've got some good ideas I'll be trying. Dave and I talked about a WHOLE ZHIT load of stuff,
We both have a love for woodworking and I got to see some of his work. Basically he showed me how he draws, a quick run though on the hilex extrude. Why components are better to use and when working with smaller objects like I have been, to make a copy, scale it up, and finish the detail (great trick). Mostly what's been covered in the thread I was having problems with.@Dave, "Style?" not every guy can look that dam good in a kilt.
The custom Doubles and shirts help, But it's the English can opener I wear on my right forearm that makes the statement! 
OK joking a side, this next file is basic, it's the smoke ring, rafters, and the slat (uncurved), I tried to get the layers to work from the ground up so you can see each step in the build up. I added notes in the components info to help clarify things. As always, any suggestions, comment, rants, raves or different angles to think about, "are greatly appreciated". 1 last thing, if I copy the objects in this file into a new file. Will the layer come with them, or are they in the file protocol and not the object protocol?
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