Adjustable desk feet
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@dave r said:
That's what I had in mind. There's probably some sort of dado set in your grandfather's shop. It's a stack of blades to go on the table saw. You'll have to make several passes with it to get the width--max for the dado set is usually 3/4". You could do a mortise and tenon joint but it would be a little more of a challenge to get right. Not much but a little.
I think I would still forgo the channel on the back and make it flat. That's easier and you'll still have room for cable tie holders. You'll have more room at the bottom for the foot hardware.
Remember, count 'em when you go in and again when you come out. The number is supposed to be the same.
Im about 80% sure he never had a set of dado blades, otherwise I will just use those. Much easier than trying to hold the board at some odd angle on a drill press. I'll probably just use the table saw to make them, when the time comes.As for the channel, the idea is to be able to hide all the cables entirely. If I made it flat they would still be visible from either side. Cutting the channel is much easier than trying to cut it at an angle. Two passes over the saw and its done. but once I have the back cut, that front face will be easier.
Cutting the flat front on that post will be harder by far. It doesn't go all the way down. As for there being room on the bottom of the foot, the area at the bottom is essentially three 2x2 squares in an L shape. The foot has more wood to go into on the post than any other ones.
I don't want to sound like I am arguing your point though! I do see what you are saying.
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So what tools are actually in the shop?
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All kinds of stuff. Basically every hand tool you would ever need. Planer, jointer, scroll saw, drill press, table saw, compound miter saw, a combination oscillating spindle/disc sander, grinding wheel, buffing wheel, lathe, bandsaw.
All manner of hand power tools: drills, palm sanders, TONS of Dremels (of various models, he was on the ideas board or whatever its called for Dremel here in Racine)... Not sure I can even come close to naming all the tools available to me.
I don't think there is any basic type of woodworking project that cannot be completed in his shop. Certain very particular techniques requiring a very specific tool might be out of reach though, but I think I can live with that.
And most important:
Dozens and dozens of clamps of varying sizes and types.
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Shoot! You're practically my neighbor. Well, not really. I was near Madison on the weekend though.
I'm still on that back leg although I'm curious about the rest now, too. You've drawn the leg as basically 4" square. What are you planning to use for lumber? Are you planning to buy a 4x4 at Menard's or something? Or will you be building up the leg out of multiple pieces or milling your own from rough stock. If you are planning to use a 4x4 from the DIY store, you'll want to revise your plans because a 4x4 is about 3-1/2" on a side. Your 2x2's will be closer to 1-1/2" on a side.
If you are very careful, you could tilt the blade on the table saw and cut the bevel on the upper part of that rear leg. You can finish it with a handsaw and hand planes. Maybe a bit of card scraper action at the end to make the surface nice as smooth.
Also be very careful when cutting the notch out of the back of the leg. the first cuts no problem but the second cut could be. Don't let the wood tilt into the blade.
I'd be inclined to build that leg as a box out of 3/4" thick stuff. You'd get a lot of strength and waste less wood.
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Yeah, I was actually out in LaCrosse and Onalaska not too long ago doing a stop for work. I'm clear across an entire state from you but, close enough.
Anyways, I've made cuts like that before. Yes, there are safety concerns. But... A TRICK!
After making the first cut, tap a small piece of thin scrap across the cut using a couple small finish nails or a staple (cut the piece a bit longer than the final length if you are worried about the holes) on either end. As long as it holds, you don't have to worry about launching a strip of wood into yourself or the wall behind you.
It will also prevent the piece from tipping down into the blade. Takes a couple seconds and just about ensures you won't mess up the cut or kill yourself with a piece of kickback turned bullet. Something I learned in highschool after making a cut like this and doing exactly what you described on the first attempt.
As for the stock, I was actually thinking about gluing up 3/4 and planing it to a 4" square. I am well aware of stock being less than its "intended" dimensions. I would probably do the same to make the 2" pieces. Not sure what I will be making the whole thing out of, but oak is likely since I am familiar with the stuff.
I will probably see if I can find a lumberyard that carries rough stock at true dimensions. One of the first things I learned was how to process 5/4 stock into basically anything. Including 48x30" sheets.
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I just don't want to read about you in the paper.
How about building it up this way?
Go over to Kettle Moraine Hardwoods. If nothing else, you can drool on the selection. They ought to have a good selection of oak, though.
If you were in LaCrosse, you were almost here. How come you didn't come to visit?
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Lots of extra cuts that way. Then you would have to cut each piece slightly over-sized (4 pieces at ~3 cuts each), glue it all up, hand plane the joints smooth. Gluing alone is a hassle with the odd shape.
Much more work than gluing up 4 pieces of 1 1/16"x 4 1/4" then planing it to 4" square, making 4 cuts and some minor hand finishing.
Plus it wouldn't be quite as strong as a solid piece.
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Actually, it would be stronger than one piece. Yes, it would be more cutting. Gluing wouldn't be difficult though.
I'm looking forward to pictures of your desk.
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Masta
up date 4-4
Not knowing where you are located makes commercial references iffy. Woodcraft, Rockler here in the US have a number of adjustable feet and Lee Valley / Veritas in Canada. Look them up on the internet.
Some other out of the box thoughts: Make legs longer than needed and cut to fit in place; Make some adjustable wedges( apposing) you can slide under the legs. You could cut and then glue these on if you don't like that appearance. For glue ups I some times take paper bag material , apply glue and use that as an interface between the two pieces I am using to get some parallel gluing (sb clamping) surface. It is strong but yet can be knocked off. I have not used this approach on end grain however so strength is ?? -
Masta
Just open your skp. Concerned about the feet location and possible over turning of the desk if someone sits on it unless you have it stabilized some other way . The rotation will be when the cg gets out side of the fall axis based on loads. The monitors are probably not real heavy so the axis you need to look at is between the two outside legs. You probably want a safety factor so 1.5 x design weight maybe
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@mac1 said:
Masta
Just open your skp. Concerned about the feet location and possible over turning of the desk if someone sits on it unless you have it stabilized some other way . The rotation will be when the cg gets out side of the fall axis based on loads. The monitors are probably not real heavy so the axis you need to look at is between the two outside legs. You probably want a safety factor so 1.5 x design weight maybeThe top edge of the center section butts up against and sits on top of the two side sections, then is bolted to them.
I share your concern though, believe me. I am looking at how I can possibly make it more stable but it would involve putting legs where I don't want them. Ultimately the stability of the thing depends on it being whole I think.
Plus if anyone sits on the center section of my desk I will beat them with a dead fish. 99% of the time there will be a chair in the way anyways.
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As long as it is not stand alone I would not worry. You must plan on someone setting or even standing on it ( children). Beating them after the fact does not help
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