Transfering M&T Detail to Mating Part
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I found a new way to transfer M&T detail to the mating part. For example if you have a leg and a Horizontal Strecher with a M&T joint construction.
- Draw the tenon on the Horizontal Strecher (or for loose tenon joint the mortise).
2.Now while the part is open for editing use a side view and parallel projection and draw a selection box (left to right) around the root of the tenon (where tenon starts) and "Copy". - Close Horizontal Strecher and open the Leg for editing.
- Click on edit/paste in place. Now if you like me draw individual parts on separate layers open the info box and change the layer of the pasted detail to match the layer of the Leg.
- Use push/pull to complete the mortise.
Keith
- Draw the tenon on the Horizontal Strecher (or for loose tenon joint the mortise).
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If you are copying and pasting the entire tenon, you could just delete the skin over the mortise. then correct the face orientation.
If you left the geometry on Layer 0 as advised by Google, you wouldn't have to worry about changing the active layer.
Out of curiosity, why do you put geometry on different layers? Seems like added work to me and greater potential for errors. I'm just asking.
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I am not talking about changing the active layer but the visibility layer. I always leave layer0 the active layer. I use the layer visibility for ease of separating views and seeing only the parts I want to see in place of using the hide feature.
Keith
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Dave: Don't miss the whole point of the post as an easier method of transfering the mating joint detail to the next part. This is so much simpler than your post of viewing the joint from inside the part and outling the joint to transfer the position. I know you don't separate into layers as much as I am doing but that has nothing really to do with the main concept of the post.
Keith
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I didn't miss the point of your post about transferring the tenon to create mortise.
And I do make extensive use of layers but I don't create them until the model is completed.
As to whether it is easier or not, I guess like most things in SketchUp there are several different approaches. I have used the method you describe for a number of years. Sometimes I do it that way, sometimes I do it the way I've shown. It just depends upon the joint. I frequently use Copy and Paste in Place for many different operations. It's a very handy method.
I did not pick up from your original post that you are leaving geometry on Layer 0. Thanks for clarifying that.
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for timber frame work (big furniture) - i don't model the negative half of the joint. only the tenons, etc. i use daiku's timber frame rubies to automate part drawings... works for furniture scaled objects too.
saves time and hassle - you never need to move both sides of the joint - just the male components - so if things shift or change sizes - updating a design is much easier.
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@dave r said:
bmike, you make a could point. Only draw what you need to draw for your purposes. Any more and you're wasting time.
I have tried Daiku's plugins. They work pretty well for that kind of drawing.
Thanks, they are a great contribution to timber framing / woodworking and SketchUp, and daiku is a great guy!
When I get through basic design of the house / building, and I move onto doing the actual detail 'timber work' - my flow goes like this:
Rough shell extracted from my presentation model (which often included furniture, windows, doors, etc.)
Timber frame structure isolated and modeled with components, timber list extracted for estimating purposes
Timber frame broken into 2d sections and bent views in LayOut
Client approval of scope / frame / design intent
Joinery goes on - this is modeled as male components only, added into my 'timber' components
Engineering checked, timber list extracted (from the model using the rubies) for ordering materials
Joinery finalized and cleaned up, then piece by piece extraction as needed to develop part drawings
Part drawings assembled and detailed with dimensions as required - I used to do this in individual SKP files, I'll now do this in LayOut as I've been working with it more and more.And yes, model only what you need, and try not to model anything that requires multiple steps to adjust / correct / remember if the client opts for size changes or design changes. This is why I only work on joinery after getting 'design' approval, and I only model joinery as needed. Using the rubies typically allows you to move pieces up / down / left / right / adjust size and only correct the joinery on 1/2 of the equation - which minimizes the chance that you'll end up with errors should you forget to transfer a design change to the other part of the joinery...
Also - I've been playing with daiku's rubies and dynamic components to automate the process further... Here's a video of a work in progress... skip ahead to 3:50 for the part relevant to joinery.
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bmike, you make a good point. Only draw what you need to draw for your purposes. Any more and you're wasting time.
I have tried Daiku's plugins. They work pretty well for that kind of drawing.
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If I remember correctly, the tenons get added as separate components? That doesn't work so well for my use but it looks like it makes drawing up timber framed structures easy. I'd like to build a timber-framed house and build my shop as a timber framed building.
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@dave r said:
If I remember correctly, the tenons get added as separate components? That doesn't work so well for my use but it looks like it makes drawing up timber framed structures easy. I'd like to build a timber-framed house and build my shop as a timber framed building.
The 'timber' is a container component, and any joinery gets added inside of that, as a separate component. This lets you build libraries of common parts / joints / etc. - and is also how the rubies determine how / what to intersect / remove from the mating timber when you create a part drawing.
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Yes. That's what I remembered. That's why it doesn't work for my needs. Still it is good for what it is intended for.
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