Adding fabric to wood?
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Has anyone ever tried covering bare wood trim with fabric? If so does it hold up? I know I know, seems kinda weird but I have a unique request from a customer and I'm just doing some test for now.
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as if it is a traditional hand carved wood meubelier or furniture?
like these?
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Interesting. I've never seen that before. What are you using for adhesive? What wood are you using as the substrate? Or are you using termite poop? Is the fabric a synthetic or a natural fiber?
I am thinking that you need to do something to the fabric to get it to relax before applying it to the wood. Otherwise, over time with seasonal movement of the wood, I would expect the adhesive would let go and you'd end up with wrinkles in the fabric.
Keep us informed about how this works out. I'm very curious.
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sorry, Dave.
i think i misunderstand what he meant. thought that was modelling and to make the real thing later. thought the fabric was to make the model looks like it have been hand carved.
i cannot erase my post above though. i don't know where the erase button is right now. -
vacuum bag?
i'd be curious as to the adhesive too.
to thin, and it will bleed through the fabric.
too thick and it won't let the fabric settle down.you'll also likely need to control stretch. pull on one side too much, and the pattern gets distorted.
too little, and you'll end up with wrinkle.odd problem.
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Irwan, you don't need to erase your post. The photos are interesting for sure.
Mike, you have a good point about controlling how the fabric is stretched to eliminate pattern distortion. Years ago I worked for a fellow who made boxes of various sizes with tambours. We glued denim fabric to the backs of the tambour slats to make a flexible mat. the fabric was cut on the bias to prevent problems with the fabric changing dimension and making the tambour sloppy. The fabric can't be seen once the tambour is installed but even so we had to be very careful to avoid stretching the fabric and distorting it. Otherwise it would cause problems with the travel and fit of the tambour in its grooves.
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Dave,
I've done some large timbers (8x12x30') with 1/4" veneer and had enough trouble keeping everything straight and aligned in a vacuum bag... I couldn't imaging using fabric without some way to control the shape and how it was put down. After about 10 timbers we sorted out a system - but those first 10 were quite the learning curve.
Kudos to anyone who works with veneer / layup on a regular basis.
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On my first post it shows just a little scrap piece of crown molding with tee shirt like material glued to it. I used some 3M
Super 77 Multipurpose Adhesive let it dry good then sprayed two coats of clear lacquer over it. I'm a little worried about the seasonal movement making the fabric loss also. But the image in the first post is just my first test. It seemed pretty easy to do and pretty rigid, will do more test tho. -
Mike, I envy anyone who can do good veneer work. Especially on large pieces. This past summer I drew plans for a federal sideboard with a serpentine front. Everything on the front gets veneered except the legs and all of the veneer grain is oriented vertically. the entire time I was drawing it I was thinking how glad I was that I wasn't building it.
Kurt, It'll be interesting to see how long that 3M 77 will hold up. i'm surprised the solvent in the lacquer didn't release the adhesive.
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I'd be worried about the Super 77. Is it archival? I wonder if a wallpaper or bookbinding glue would serve you better.
And I'd consider maybe moving to a substrate that will not be affected by seasonal changes.
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I think those are good suggestions. The wallpaper or book binding glue wouldn't be weakened by the solvent in the finish, either.
As for the substrate, Maybe MDF sealed with shellac would be a good base.
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Folks,
Years ago, when my wife and remodeled our New York City apartment, we covered the walls with polished cotton fabric. We stuck it to the walls with undiluted laundry starch. It makes a great adhesive. We never had problems with the fabric wrinkling from seasonal changes, nor did we have trouble with the starch losing its adhesiveness over time. Sure, I know, a plaster wall is different from wood, with different behavior in seasonal changes in temperature and humidity. But it might be worth a try to attach fabric to wood with starch. If you prime the wood, then the starch becomes completely reversible. If it doesn't work, you can sponge it off and try something else.
Best,
dh -
Years ago, I mean many, I worked for an engineering and architecture firm that designed the original "Inn of the Mountain God's" for the Mescalero Apache tribe in New Mexico. The Tribal chairman's wife had some ideas she wanted incorporated into the window drapes. To mock up the design we wrapped a piece of 3/4" plywood with canvas and silk screened the design onto the canvas surface. The canvas shrank so tightly that the plywood broke. Admittedly, we were prototyping and experimenting, but consider shrinkage when the adhesive meets the material and don't underestimate the power of shrinking cloth.
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