A New Model and a Challenge
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It's a nice model to begin with but the first thing I notice you don't have mortices or tenons for the slats.Are you going to use a table saw or build a jig for a router which might be a better way to go so you can use it with other projects that require a tenon at some angle other than 90 however I've seen Norm do some pretty incredible things with a tenoning jig on the table saw. could use a Festool Domino if you got the money.
The front legs on the chair, the curve will eventually crack off if you don't either use a separate piece joined to the leg or use a lamination method of some kind if you get what I'm thinking.
Are you going to use screws for the back slats as I don't see any joint there? -
If I were going to build the piece for real, I'd certainly follow your advice. But I'm content to draw a model and leave it at that. As for the seat slats, they rest on a curved cleat and could be screwed in place from the top. That would be far easier (and just as strong, I think) than trying to mortise them in place. The back slats are probably screwed to a pair of support pieces, one at the very bottom, another about half-way up the slat. At the top, they are mortised into the crest rail.
Thanks for the input. It's most helpful.
Best,
djh -
@unknownuser said:
As for the seat slats, they rest on a curved cleat and could be screwed in place from the top. That would be far easier (and just as strong, I think) than trying to mortise them in place.
Firstly I know didly about wood working, even though 80% of my paid commissions is wood based furniture rendering.
However I do not believe screwing anything on this chair especially from above as this is an outside piece and exposed to the elements.I would also bullnose/bevel the slats.
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Dear Solo,
Stainless-steel screws would work. Or, you could substitute dowels and peg the slats in place that way. McFeely's or some similar outfit probably also sells coated screws that are rust-resistant.
dh -
Nice work, David. I see a few missing mortises that would only take a few moments worth of work. I'm curious about what is going on with the rear rail on the ottoman. Why those lines and why is there a gap between the mortise and its tenon?
As to attaching the slats, I agree that stainless screws (or bronze) would be plenty strong. I would screw in from below and make sure I didn't come out the top.
For the front legs I would be inclined to laminate them thusly. The overlapping faces at the miters would give a strong joint and the grain on the curved parts could run generally the length of the curve. This is a common construction method for sawn boat keels and makes for very strong construction.
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Dave,
You earn bonuses for finding a couple of flaws I missed and for spotting the missing mortises that I did know about. Anyone else up for the challenge?
Best,
dh -
Does the little line segment floating in space behind the chair count? The mortise on the bottom edge of the crest rail that is outlined but not punched in? The misalignment where the armrest meets the back leg? The peg not aligned with the hole in the arm rest? The incomplete notches in Back slats 1 and 6? Why aren't 1 and 6, 2 and 5 and 3 and 4 related components? What about component axis alignments? Many of them could stand some adjustment.
Should I stop, now?
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You can stop anytime you like. I think you've won the challenge.
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Sorry.
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Have a beer Dave
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Lol Dave, you gonna give David a modeling complex soon.
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I'm just trying to keep my friend on the straight and narrow.
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Don't be too hard on my good friend Dave R. His comments are always well-intentioned and most helpful. No worry that he'll give me a complex of any kind. (My Napoleon complex is a pre-existing condition.)
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