Render of project with maxwell render
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Try to use AGS instead of 'real' glass, if you aren't already.
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this may have rendered for 24 hours...but i suspect, it didnt change too too much after the 8 hour mark..
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a cloudy sky maybe? i think it gives you a bit more reality and reference...
good start! -
@frederik said:
A nice render and model...
But like others already have said... You can gain much by working more with the materials and textures...
I'm really not impressed with the 24 hours render time... In particular not since the render is only 800 x 364...
With other unbiased render applications (None mentioned, none forgotten...) you could easily achieve equal quality in max 1 hour...i had to compress the size of the image, normaly it was 2200x1000.
I'm working on a new render with more materials and some new textures ...
I'll post an update soon! -
@marked001 said:
this may have rendered for 24 hours...but i suspect, it didnt change too too much after the 8 hour mark..
no it didn't
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i have worked on my project a little bit more ...
this is what i got now.
http://img5.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rendervanonshuis2003200z.jpg
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nice rende r, but too repetative textures , you may work on them in material editor , or a posst pro whit ps, also adding something ( maybe just a 2d picture ) in front of your glass ( and behinde the camera) may make your glass to seem more realastic. and what about 2d bushes? i guess u've ignored them to texture correctly...
keep good rendering -
You can cut many hours off your render time if you just do multiple passes instead of rendering everything in one go. For example just render the house, and the cars in different shots and the environment last. Then compile them together in a 2D program. Many people use this technique, over at SFMeshes some models are in the 'Gigabyte' regions so rendering is painfully slow for them. They can cut their render times in half however using this method?
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As Majid suggests there is some nasty tiling in the foreground materials. To avoid this myself I put a dirt map in the MXM and make the tiling say 0.2 (meaning it is 5 times the size of the original map.
You can do it two ways:
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Add a second BSDF layer to the material and use a dirt map in the 0 reflectance channel, make this BSDF layer fairly low weighted say 10%.
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Have 2 BSDF layers of the same paving material with one slightly lighter in colour and vary the weight of each layer with a low contrast greyscale noise map.
I will add that you only need to do this setup once as you know - that material can be saved in this format and used again. This is a great way to get use from smaller tiling maps!
Your windows are relflecting too much of the horizon light! To fix this either:
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Use a HDRI in the reflection channel for environmental setting and/or
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Make some very low poly buildings for the opposing side of the road to reflect in the window! Make sure though that these are postioned such that they are seen in the reflections from way down the road.
I will often just copy the main geometry of the building (subject) in the scene and flip it to the other side of the road and scale it up or stretch it so it blocks the horizon sun. Fairly simple and painless!
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I would get rid of the converging verticals. In some scenes they might look OK to make a tall building look taller, but in a buliding this low it just does not feel right to me. I would also add some clouds or other atmospherics to the sky. Now it looks like a model photographed in front of a blue background. Also Photograph a runway or large parking lot. The streed needs a little dirt even if the building s are perfect.The foreground needs a car and some tree branches intruding into the frame. You will have plenty of opportunities to enhance you scene, but don't equate pristine sterility with a great render. A great render needs believability and that denotes some natural processes at work.
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