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    A Little Wall Cabinet From the Early 1900s

    Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Woodworking
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    • N Offline
      nickchun
      last edited by

      Thanks for the detailed reply, I get it now, but of course the mirror doesn't show in the render. I have actually used the router/corner chisel method myself (once, about 6 years ago) but didn't put two and two together. I hadn't allowed for modern tools being used on an old design.

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      • Dave RD Offline
        Dave R
        last edited by

        I did play with creating a mirror in KT but didn't like the results and decided to move on.

        I expect that while electic hand held routers weren't around, there were ways to make the rabbet like this. Probably would have just offset the shoulder on the rails and run the rabbet straight down.

        Etaoin Shrdlu

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        • G Offline
          Gene Davis
          last edited by

          I'm away from home and without my favorite woodworking tool, Sketchup.

          But I'll be home soon, and will tackle this posthaste. I'm thinking of doing two different sizes, a mini and maxi, and will examine all the various choices in joinery, going for best practice, and foolproof machinery setups.

          I've enough paint grade clear maple and heart birch for all the exposed parts, and for the v-joint inside back, there's some choice antique heart pine that will be clearcoated, and not painted like the rest.

          Some chunks of qs white oak will be used for the knobs, with a stepped square shank, set through the door stile and wedged.

          Some nice brass hinges with finials (from Whitechapel) should be a nice touch.

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          • pbacotP Offline
            pbacot
            last edited by

            Fine example all around. So you would join the door with tenons?

            Thanks for the component David! I want to check it out and might use it.

            MacOSX MojaveSketchUp Pro v19 Twilight v2 Thea v3 PowerCADD

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            • Dave RD Offline
              Dave R
              last edited by

              Peter, I would use tenons to join the door parts.

              Etaoin Shrdlu

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              • Dave RD Offline
                Dave R
                last edited by

                Well, I got rid of the wedges in the through tenons and shortened them up a bit. I also modified the door so the panel fits in a groove and I put a piece of glass in there.

                Medicine cabinet.png

                Here it is without painted in white.

                Medicine cabinet white.png

                I need to figure out the how to make the glass nicer. I wanted a stronger reflection of its surface.

                Etaoin Shrdlu

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                • D Offline
                  davidheim1
                  last edited by

                  Dave,
                  Would it work to create a texture in Photoshop, setting the opacity to make it nearly transparent, then importing it into SketchUp? Or would the transparency disappear once it's imported?
                  Best,
                  dh

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                  • Dave RD Offline
                    Dave R
                    last edited by

                    David, you could do that if you save the texture image as a PNG. It won't have the same qualities as a reflection, even a rendered reflection but it could be done. It will tend to wash out materials behind and i think make those textures lighter instead of darker.

                    In the case of my textured image, I hid the panels in the textured image and overlaid the rendered image so the reflections would be there.

                    It might also be worth trying to make two separate image exports from SketchUp and laying one over the other. One image would be the textured image without the glass and the other would be similar to the white rendered image be without edges. So basically the reflection image applied to the class would be the only thing that shows.

                    Etaoin Shrdlu

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                    • G Offline
                      Gene Davis
                      last edited by

                      A quick first shot at sizing and design. Now for some subtle tweaking, then the joinery.

                      The through-holes look like they need to be a little larger. Other things need work.

                      2013-02-28_0943.png

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                      • Dave RD Offline
                        Dave R
                        last edited by

                        Nice. Maybe it is a trick of the light but your cabinet looks like it is a bit on the shallow side.

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                        • G Offline
                          Gene Davis
                          last edited by

                          The inside depth is 3-1/2", which is 1/8" deeper than the Robern meds cab I have in the bathroom down the hall. I thought it was sufficient.


                          2013-03-05_1713.png

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                          • Dave RD Offline
                            Dave R
                            last edited by

                            I'm sure it will be deep enough. What kind of wood will you make it out of?

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                            • G Offline
                              Gene Davis
                              last edited by

                              It will be painted, except for the inside back, maybe the knob, and the pegs. Maple makes a good painted surface, and the local supply of "brown" maple (that not selected as clear all-sapwood) is plentiful and inexpensive.

                              The little pegs will be something dark, maybe walnut. Same for the knob. I've some nice old-growth heart pine pieces for making the grooved back, and it will be clearcoated.

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                              • G Offline
                                Gene Davis
                                last edited by

                                Parts all mostly machined for a prototype. Done in eastern white pine. Through square holes are not easy. Very precise mark-out and scary sharp chisels required. May make router jig for doing it next time, then square corners with chisel and file.

                                Door rail tenons to be notched, top hanger rail needs to be shaped with bandsaw and cleaned up. Used full-size template print plug-in.

                                Am hoping it goes a little better in hardwood.


                                IMG_0815.JPG

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                                • Dave RD Offline
                                  Dave R
                                  last edited by

                                  That's looking good, Gene. I wish I could get Eastern white pine that looks as nice.

                                  For the hardwood version are you going to use white oak or something else?

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